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1990-08-14
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7KB
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172 lines
Troubleshooting Tree to Diagnose Why a Car Won't Start CJC 8/14/90
Copyright (c) 1990 Cooney Applied Technology
Some of the steps that will be listed may contain instructions to do things
that may be dangerous to those not aquatinted with basic safety in working
around cars and machinery. Be careful and do not do anything that you are
not sure of how to do and how to do safely.
Use this program at your own risk, the author assumes no liability for the
use of this program.
#
Does the engine crank when the key is turned?
N:>CRANKING-SYSTEM
Pull a wire off of a spark plug, hold it within 1/16" of a ground, and
crank the engine. Is their a fat blue spark?
N:>IGNITION-SYSTEM
Y:>FUEL-SYSTEM
CRANKING-SYSTEM:
Look at dome light with door open (or turn on headlights). Is it lit?
N:>NO-POWER
Turn key while watching light. Does it go out?
Y:>FADE-POWER
Did the light stay exactly as bright?
Y:>NO-STARTER-CURRENT
N:>BAD-STARTER
NO-STARTER-CURRENT:
Find the Starter Relay. Turn the key, does it click?
N:>NO-RELAY-FUNCTION
Is there at least 6V on the Starter Relay terminal connected to the
battery?
N:Bad cable from battery or connections.
When the key is turned and the relay clicks, is there at least 6V on
the Starter Relay terminal connected to the starter?
N:Bad Starter Relay (contacts).
When the key is turned, is there at least 6V on the Starter terminal
connected to the Starter Relay?
N:Cable from Starter Relay to Starter defective or bad
connections.
Y:Defective Starter (open).
BAD-STARTER:
When the key is turned, is there at least 6V on the Starter terminal
connected to the Starter Relay?
N:Cables from Battery to Starter Relay to Starter have high
resistance connections.
Y:Defective Starter (jammed).
NO-RELAY-FUNCTION:
Is there at least 6V on the Starter Relay terminal connected to the
battery?
N:Bad cable from battery or connections.
Remove the wire from the Starter Relay terminal that connects to the
ignition switch. Ground this terminal. Does the engine now crank?
Y:Bad ignition switch or wiring.
N:Bad Starter Relay (open coil).
FADE-POWER:
Measure the voltage directly across the battery POSTS while turning
the key. Is it at least 6V?
N:Battery dead or defective. Jump-start, recharge, or replace.
Y:Battery connections defective or wiring from battery to fuse
panel defective.
NO-POWER:
Measure the voltage directly across the battery POSTS. Is it at least
10V?
N:Battery dead. Jump-start, recharge, or replace.
Y:Battery connections defective or wiring from battery to fuse
panel defective.
IGNITION-SYSTEM:
Pull the lead off of the distributor cap that comes from the coil.
Hold it within 1/16" of a ground, and crank the engine. Is there a
fat blue spark?
Y:>CAP-WIRES
With the ignition on, is there at least 10V on the "+" terminal of the
coil?
N:Either the ignition ballast resistor is defective, a fuse is
blown, or the coil primary wiring is defective.
Connect a voltmeter across the coil "+" and "-" terminals. Crank the
engine. Is a constant (not pulsating) voltage seen?
Y:>GROUNDED-COIL
Did the voltmeter show a pulsating voltage?
N:>NO-COIL-GROUND
Ohm out the coil to distributor wire. Is it less than 50,000 ohms?
Y:The coil is defective.
N:The coil to distributor wire is defective.
CAP-WIRES:
Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Are the cap contacts or rotor
damaged or badly worn?
Y:Replace cap & rotor.
Crank the engine, and watch to see if the rotor turns. Did it turn?
N:Either the distributor is broken, or the timing chain or belt
is broken.
Y:Sparkplug wires are likely defective, Ohm out to verify.
GROUNDED-COIL:
Does your car have points in the distributor (not electronic
ignition)?
N:Your electronic ignition module or its pickup unit is
defective.
Remove the condenser and check it for shorts. Is it shorted?
Y:Replace condenser.
N:Points shorted or wire from distributor to coil shorted to
ground.
NO-COIL-GROUND:
Does your car have points in the distributor (not electronic
ignition)?
Y:Your electronic ignition module is defective.
N:Points defective or wire from distributor to coil open.
FUEL-SYSTEM:
Does the gas gauge show gasoline in the tank?
N:Fill it up dummy!
Does your car have fuel injection?
Y:Your car cranks and it has spark. It is most likely the fuel
injection system is not working or not receiving fuel. You had
best call a mechanic to check the system, it can be complex and
dangerous! Just pulling a line loose can squirt you with 50
PSI of stored fuel pressure! Problems might be a plugged fuel
filter, damaged or plugged fuel lines, a defective fuel pump,
engine computer or sensor problems, actuated rollover switch,
bad injectors or wiring, bad pressure regulator, air flow
sensor defective, etc.
Remove the air cleaner and look at the choke valve or plate.
If the engine is cold, it should be closed.
If the engine is hot, it should be open.
Does it look proper?
N:Defective choke, either stuck or bad thermostatic spring or heater.
Do you smell the strong smell of gasoline?
N:>NO_SMELL
It is probably flooded. Push accelerator to the floor and hold it there,
DON'T pump it! On most cars, pushing the acceleration to the floor will also
open the choke valve. If your choke valve doesn't open, use a screwdriver to
block the choke open.
If there is still plenty of battery charge left you can crank the engine
until it starts. Don't crank continuously, you will damage the starter.
Stay clear of the carburetor, the engine may backfire!
If you don't want to crank, wait a FULL 2 MINUTES (or more) while holding the
accelerator to the floor, don't pump it. Then, while still holding the
accelerator to the floor, try to start the car.
Did it start?
Y:It was flooded. You probably have a choke or other carburetor
problem.
N:>NO_SMELL
NO_SMELL:
Push the choke valve open with a screwdriver. Look down the carburetor
throat and pump the throttle. Does a jet of fuel squirt in the throat?
Y:Well, if your car cranks, has spark, it has fuel in the
carburetor, and isn't flooded, it should start. Either you gave an
incorrect answer to a question , or something obscure has gone wrong.
Try this program again, or call a mechanic.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor connect a piece of rubber
fuel line to the end, and put the other end into a glass jar. Have a
fire extinguisher handy! Crank the engine. Does fuel flow into the
jar?
Y:Carburetor or inlet filter defective.
Reconnect the line to the carburetor. Remove the fuel line from the
fuel pump side of the fuel filter and connect a piece of rubber fuel
line to the end. Put the other end into a glass jar. Crank the
engine. Does fuel flow into the jar?
Y:Plugged fuel filter.
N:The fuel pump is defective, although it is possible that
instead the lines to the fuel tank or pickup in the tank are
clogged.